Apple has started to run a new television ad for the iPhone 5, titled “Music Every Day.” The commercial follows people listening to music while performing various activities while using the classic white Apple earbuds. Though the commercial itself stays fairly quiet with soft piano music and a few occasional sound effects, it ends with a brief message:

“Every day, more people enjoy their music on the iPhone than any other phone.”

The commercial is embedded below to view:

The advertisement is themed along the same lines as “Photos Every Day”, which emphasized iPhone photography and started airing a month prior.

Though it doesn’t resonate quite as well as the Photos spot, Music Every Day is still a good commercial, and overall these softer themed commercials are proving to be much more popular than the rather obnoxious shouting iPhone TV ads that aired before one too many times.

It’s really easy to delete calls from the iPhone call history log, and you can get quite specific in the process. You can delete a single specific call, outbound calls, incoming calls, all missed calls, received calls, basically, if it is included in the Phone app “Recents” list, it can be deleted with ease. While we’re on the subject, we’ll also show you how to recover anything that has been deleted from iPhones call history.

Delete All Calls and Clear All Call History

This will provide you with a blank slate of calls:

• From the Phone menu, choose “Recents”, and then the “All” tab
• Tap “Edit” then tap the “Clear” button in the upper left corner
• Confirm by selecting “Clear All Recents”

This will remove everything from the Recents list, leaving a blank screen. This is a helpful trick for people in sales or for anyone who makes a lot of phone calls for work, since you can clear out the call list at the start of the day and easily see a list of who you’ve talked to without accidentally overlapping with other dates.

If you’re trying to just hide a call or two from a call log without raising suspicion, this is not the way to go since it’s pretty obvious that the entire list has been cleared out, and you’d be better off deleting the specific call(s) you want to remove from the list.

Delete a Single Call from the Call Log

The easiest way to delete a single call is with the swipe gesture that we’ve discussed before:

• Swipe Left or Swipe Right on any call under the “Recents” list
• Tap the red “Delete” button when it shows

You can also remove a single call from call history by using the “Edit” method, then tapping on the phone number to delete, but that’s a bit slower for just a single call. That’s why the swipe to delete method is nice, because it doesn’t require any additional tapping around, though if you want to delete multiple calls from call history then the next Edit-based approach is typically better.

Remove Multiple Calls from Call History

Though you can use the swipe-to-delete method described first, if you’re aiming to remove multiple calls from the call history list, you’re better off using the “Edit” method because it’s a bit faster for clearing more than one entry:

• From the “Recents” menu, tap on “All”, then tap on “Edit”
• Tap the red (-) minus button, then tap the red “Delete” button
• Repeat to remove other calls, tap “Done” when finished

To quickly remove a bunch of calls the best thing to do is position one finger over the left side of the call history where the red (-) minus button appears, and position another finger where the red delete button appears. This way you can quickly tap both the buttons to remove a large amount of calls faster.

Clearing Missed Calls Only

Didn’t answer a specific call, and want to remove a record of that missed call from appearing on your iPhone? Or maybe you want to delete all missed calls? That’s easy too, everything is the same as above except for one key distinction:

• Delete a single missed call: Look for calls that appear in red to indicate they were missed, and delete using the manual swipe or Edit approach described above
• Delete all missed calls: From the “Recents” menu, tap the “Missed” tab, then tap “Edit” and “Clear”

Recovering Deleted Calls & Restoring Call History

Recovering a list of calls that have been deleted is possible, but there’s a fairly significant caveat: the iPhone must have had a recent backup. That’s because the date of the last backup is when you’ll be able to recover the deleted calls back to. For example, if the last backup was performed a week ago, you would only be able to restore the deleted calls that were made a week ago and prior to that backup date.

Whether that backup was from iCloud to a computer on iTunes doesn’t matter, you just need to restore the iPhone from that most recent backup to regain the deleted calls list and see call history from that date and before. If you’re not sure how to do this, here’s how to restore from backups stored with iTunes or iCloud. The benefit to the iCloud method is that it can be done entirely through the iPhone and does not require a computer, it only needs the Apple ID login details to the iCloud account. Do note there is a difference between simple restoring, and restoring from a backup. Restoring alone will just take the phone to factory settings, which is why restoring from a backup is what you’re looking to do. Anyway, let the iPhone restore from the appropriate backup, then open Phone > Recents > All and you will find the phone call log before it was deleted.

Photo Booth is the goofy picture taking application in OS X that can take normal shots or apply a bunch of weird effects to distort faces. It’s not the most complex app in the world and that’s by design, but if you like to dig into things a bit more than the average Mac user, you can enable a hidden debug menu that can adjust some behavior of Photo Booth.

This won’t give you any new effects (though you can reveal some hidden ones separately if you’re into that sort of thing), but it does offer a few features that may help performance on Mac models.

Enabling the Debug Menu in Photo Booth

Launch Terminal and enter the following defaults write command:

defaults write com.apple.PhotoBooth EnableDebugMenu 1

Relaunch Photo Booth to reveal the debug menu on the right side of menus:

Pulling down the menu reveals the following options:

• Show FrameMeter – this displays the frames-per-second (FPS) of the active Photo Booth session
• Preprocess Full Previews on GPU – this offloads processing to the Macs GPU, turn this off and CPU will be used instead, this does cause a significant increase in CPU usage
• Preprocess Mini Previews on GPU – offloads processing of the thumbnail effect previews to the GPU or CPU, depending on the setting
• Use CVOpenCLTextureCache – determines whether or not to use CoreVideo texture caches, you can read more at Apple’s developer library if you are curious
• Bypass QC for no FX – Determines whether to bypass Quartz Composer or not, QuartzComposer is used to create the funky face effects
• Enable Reflections – shows reflections on the Photo Booth borders when in full screen mode, enabled in windowed mode adds weird reflections into the video frame itself

For the most part, these options aren’t too useful for the average user, and this was clearly included for the developers of Photo Booth. That said, seeing the framerate and toggling CPU or GPU usage can be helpful if you’re trying to make the app perform better on some older Macs. The frame rate data and video processing options are shown in the lower left corner of the Photo Booth app:

Because the FPS data is shown all the time when it has been enabled, it’s probably not a good idea to leave this on all the time since it overlays a stored image thumbnail.

Hiding the Debug Menu in Photo Booth

Decided the debug menu isn’t for you? It’s easy to hide again, just toggle it off with another defaults command:

defaults write com.apple.PhotoBooth EnableDebugMenu 0

Relaunch Photo Booth app for the menu to disappear, back to its default state.

You can enable similar debug menus in a variety of default apps, including Safari (by far the most useful), Reminders, Calendar, Contacts, Apple Remote Desktop, the Mac App Store, amongst others. The defaults command is always the same, just change the com.apple.* string to include the application name: com.apple.Safari or com.apple.Reminders, etc. If you poke around and find something new, be sure to send us an email or let us know on Facebook, Google+, or Twitter.

Ever had your iPhone get stuck in Headphone mode? The symptoms are fairly obvious; you go to change the volume level and the little volume indicator says “ringer (headphones)” like shown below, and no audio our sound works through the normal speaker output.

Some people interpret this as their iPhone speakers suddenly not working or that something is broken, but that is actually pretty rare, and you can usually fix the issue really quickly with nothing but a q-tip and a set of headphones or earbuds (yes, you read that right, you will use a pair of headphones to get the iPhone out of Headphone mode). I ran into this today and here’s how I fixed it in about a minute:

• Remove any case or enclosure the iPhone may be in
• Use compressed air (or your mouth) to blow directly into the headphone jack, this may help to dislodge dust or pocket lint stuck in the port
• Get a Q-Tip or toothpick and swab around inside the port to dislodge any remaining particles



• Connect the set of headphones, make sure there is a complete connection and be sure that audio transmits through them, then firmly pull out the headphones – audio should work as usual
• Connect & disconnect the headphones a few more times if nothing happens the first time

The iPhone should be good to go now. Toggling the volume up/down buttons should just show “Ringer” as it’s supposed to like the screenshot shows below, and audio will play out of the iPhone speakers as usual.

Why does this happen? It could be a number of things, perhaps it’s just a weird software quirk where the iPhone doesn’t recognize that headphones have been disconnected from the jack – that seems to be exacerbated by some protective cases that cause obstruction to the audio jack, thus why you should remove the case before trying any of this. It could even be something physical stuck in there like a piece of lint, thus the usage of blowing air in there and swabbing around with the q-tip. Thankfully, it’s easy to fix in the vast majority of encounters, though there are some cases where Headphone mode gets stuck on after an iPhone has had water contact (which is probably why earlier iPhone models has water sensors in the headphone jack) but if an iPhone is properly handled after water contact you can usually save it from damage or any quirks like that.

Having helped a reader resolve this problem a few weeks back, and then running into it myself, I figured it was worth a write up. So if you find your iPhone speakers suddenly aren’t working and the “(headphones)” message is stuck on despite nothing attached to the phone, try the steps outlined above before calling Apple Support, it will probably work for you too.

FileVault is an amazing disk level encryption feature that comes with Mac OS X. When it has been enabled, it encrypts everything, all disk contents, and actively encrypts and decrypts data on the fly, meaning any newly created data or document will instantly be encrypted as well. It’s fast and incredibly secure, using XTS-AES 128 encryption to keep things far out of the reaches of prying eyes.

Should you use FileVault or not?

FileVault is excellent and easy to use, and offers some enormous added security benefit, but it’s not for everyone. Most people just don’t need this intense level of security, and for many users going with a simple encrypted folder image for storing critical files is often a better solution. Whether or not you should use FileVault is entirely up to you and your individual security needs, but before enabling it, consider these two important considerations:

First, if you lose your password and the backup recovery key, your data is gone for good. That means your files could become unrecoverable, inaccessible – zip, gone, nada. This is because FileVault encryption is so powerful that nobody can break it in any reasonable amount of time (for earthlings anyway, 100,000 years is not reasonable). You can choose to store the recovery backup key with Apple, which helps to mitigate that risk a little bit, but that isn’t always an option for everyone. In other words, if you’re forgetful and prone to losing things, FileVault is probably not for you.

Second, because FileVault uses on-the-fly encryption, it can lead to a performance degradation on some Macs. This is particularly true older models and Macs with slower hard drives. For this reason, FileVault is best used on newer Macs, preferably those that are equipped with faster hard disks like SSD’s. SSD’s are quick enough that you’ll basically never notice the difference, whereas older 5400rpm drives can feel some delay, particularly when accessing larger files. If you really want fast performance with disk level encryption, FileVault is yet another great excuse to upgrade to an SSD, which are increasingly affordable and offer the best bang for the upgrade buck anyway.

If you’re comfortable with the password requirements, the recovery key, and have a speedy Mac for the best performance, and you feel like you need the utmost security on your Mac with disk level encryption, then let’s proceed to enable FileVault in OS X.

How to Enable FileVault Encryption

Turning on FileVault disk encryption is easy in Mac OS X:

• From the  Apple menu open System Preferences and go to “Security & Privacy”
• Choose the “FileVault” tab and click the little lock icon in the lower left corner, then enter the administrator password
• Next, click the “Turn On FileVault” button to start the setup process



• Optional: if the Mac has multiple users or different user accounts, you will need to individually enable Filevault access for each user by entering that users password, this allows them to decrypt files not the disk – otherwise, those users will not be able to access the disk



• IMPORTANT: Make a note of the recovery key that is shown on the next screen and store it somewhere safe. This is the only way to regain access to the Mac if you forget the password – when finished click “Continue”



• RECOMMENDED: Choose “Store the recovery key with Apple” and answer the three questions, this is a backup plan of sorts in case you lose the recovery key, it allows you to contact Apple and get it from them



• When finished answering the questions and jotting down the Recovery Key somewhere safe, go ahead and click “Restart” to begin the drive encryption process

The FileVault recovery key is a 24 character alphanumeric password alternative that allows you to decrypt the drive in the event you forget a password. This is very necessary to store somewhere safe, because the typical methods of recovering Macs with forgotten passwords will not work, and it will otherwise be impossible to access data on the disk. It would be a good idea to store this somewhere physically accessible, like a safe, in addition to somewhere safe in the virtual world, be it in a password protected zip file in a web mail account sent to yourself, or somewhere else with multiple security layers that would make sense to store a set of random numbers. Just don’t make it too obvious, or else you’ll defeat the point of the encryption if anyone could find it.

For the highest possible security choosing “Do not store the recovery key with Apple” is valid, but for the average user that’s probably not a good idea. Thus, for the vast majority of average Mac users without incredibly high security needs (top secret data, super secrets, whatever), you are better off storing the recovery key with Apple.

After the initial reboot, things are going to be very slow while the hard drive and all contents are being encrypted. The best thing to do is just let this run and don’t use the computer, it seems to take between 5-15 minutes for every 50GB of used space on the drive, depending on the speed of the Mac and the speed of the drive itself.

Checking FileVault Encryption Progress

You can check the progress of the encryption by returning to the Security & Privacy preference panel and looking under the “FileVault” tab:

If you’re trying to find a specific process ID attached to encryption and decryption, it doesn’t really exist, instead the entire process is run under “kernel_task”, which is the Mac OS X kernel doing the work on both sides.

Disabling FileVault Encryption

Decided FileVault isn’t for you? You’re certainly not alone, and fortunately turning off FileVault is super easy, the only thing you’ll need is the administrator password and then follow these quick instructions:

• Go to System Preferences from the  Apple menu and choose the “Security & Privacy” control panel
• Go to the “FileVault” tab, then click the lock icon in the corner to unlock the preferences
• Click the “Turn Off FileVault” button

FileVault will show a progress indicator as it decrypts the drive, and also will provide an estimated completion time. Typically this is about as long as it takes to encrypt the drive, so that could range from 10 minutes to 2 hours+, depending on the drive size, drive speed, and the speed of the Mac. It’s best to just let things sit while this happens, though you can use your Mac if you want to, performance may suffer a bit and feel sluggish with all the disk and CPU activity.

FileVault & General Security Precautions

Though FileVault is incredibly secure, it’s not a replacement for using traditional security measures as well. Always remember to lock your Mac when it’s not in use, and always password protect the Mac with screen savers and by requiring passwords on login and during system boot. Because backing up data is incredibly important, it can also be a good idea to encrypt external drives as well as protecting your Time Machine backups, particularly if they store sensitive data or documents from the primary Mac. Obviously there’s little point to having a very secure primary Mac but backups that are open for anyone to snoop around in should they come across them.

Is this all necessary for the average user? Probably not, but ultimately you will need to decide on what security precautions to take for your specific needs.

The color indicators in the Mac OS X Dock provide an easy way to tell what apps are running just by glancing at the Dock. OS X basically provides you with two options for those indicators, which is to either show them or not, but because we like to customize things we’ll cover how to change the indicator light appearance so that they display as a different color completely. Optionally, this could include using a simple indicator that also removes the glowing appearance, which can leave the OS X Dock looking a bit more minimalist like this:

There are actually two ways to go about changing the Dock indicators, one uses a free tool called MacUtil, and the other will be done completely manually without the need for any third party apps or downloads. MacUtil is the easiest approach, thus making it the generally recommended approach, and we’ll cover that first. Because either method modifies system files, it’s a good idea to perform a quick manual backup to Time Machine before beginning. It’s unlikely something will go wrong, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry. As always with these system tweaks, proceed at your own risk.

Change the Color of the Dock Indicator Lights in OS X with MacUtil

We’ll cover the quick method first, using a free third party tweak utility called MacUtil. If you’d rather do it manually on your own, or use different colors than what are offered by MacUtil, jump below for the manual approach:

• Get MacUtil free from the developer
• Launch MacUtil and click the button next to “Change indicator light color for open applications”



• Enter the administrator password to authenticate the changes
• Select the color you wish to change

You’ll now have a range of color options to choose from: Default (literally the OS X default), Green, Light, Light Purple, Purple, Turquoise, Violet, Vivid, Yellow, and “Custom” which will rely on your own image file input, and could be used to make the indicator lights any color at all.

If you’re simply aiming to make the indicator lights more obvious, “Vivid” is the obvious choice, which essentially brightens up the default option, making it a bit more obvious which apps are active and which aren’t.

Whatever color you choose, changes are made instantly and they take effect quickly, so there is little harm to trying a few and seeing which you like best.

Here is “Vivid”, which makes it much easier to see:

This is what “Yellow” Dock lights look like:

And here is what “Purple” indicator lights look like:

And here is what a “Custom” black indicator color looks like, we chose a black rectangle which looks quite nice if you like minimalism more than glowing glitz:

For those interested in the black color, it’s just a tiny 10×3 file that is black, you can download it here or save the little tiny black image below if you’re interested in using it yourself.

Do note that this sample black indicator is not retina ready, so if you have a retina Mac you will want to use a higher resolution version instead. I just made that file myself, which is very easy to do by grabbing one of the files in the manual approach mentioned below, making the desired color changes, then saving it and using it with MacUtil’s “Custom” indicator function.

This is obviously all really easy to change from the MacUtil app, but if you want to do it manually that’s what we’ll cover next.

Changing the Dock Indicator Lights Manually

For the Do-It-Yourself crowd, you can do all of this entirely on your own by modifying system files and replacing them with your own variations. Not to rain on anyones parade, but it’s sort of a tedious process, so unless you have some very specific desire to use a particular image, it’s easier to just use the MacUtil method described above. Nonetheless, we’ll show you how to change these files on your own if you’re inclined to go the manual route.

This requires changing system files yourself, it’s always a good idea to perform a quick manual backup to Time Machine or whatever you use before making changes to system folders and their contents.

• From the Finder, use Command+Shift+G and to summon Go To Folder and enter the following path:

/System/Library/CoreServices/Dock.app/Contents/Resources/

• Use the “Folder Search” feature in the upper right corner, narrow the search down to only the “Resources” folder, and and look for “indicator_”



• Select all and make a copy of these files to a folder on the desktop called “Indicator Backup” – this is so that you can easily revert back to defaults should you decide your replacement indicators are unpleasant
• Modify or replace the Resources/ directory contents to change the indicators, focus on the following files:

indicator_large.png
indicator_large@2x.png
indicator_medium_simple.png
indicator_medium_simple@2x.png
indicator_medium.png
indicator_medium@2x.png
indicator_small_simple.png
indicator_small_simple@2x.png
indicator_small.png
indicator_small@2x.png

• Go to the Terminal and kill the Dock to refresh it for changes to take effect

killall Dock

• Enjoy your new Dock indicator icons

For what it’s worth, the “@2x” suffix indicates whether the image file is sized for retina displays or not, and if you don’t have a retina-equipped Mac then you don’t really need to replace those for the changes to take effect.

You can modify those files however you want, whether it’s just making simple hue and saturation changes with Preview app, or replacing them with completely different images and your own art drawn up through Pixelmator, Photoshop, or your image editing app of choice.

Happy customizing!

Just about every iPhone user loves the iPhone 5, but if there is one thing to complain about it’s almost always about the devices battery life, or rather, lack thereof. Nearly all who use their iPhone 5 constantly will offer some variation of this complaint, and for many of us it’s the first iPhone that has to be charged throughout the day too, rather than charging it exclusively overnight and having it ready to go for the next day. Being dependent on a wall charger is never fun, so we’re going to focus on some tips that are actually proven to work that prolong battery life. As you’ll see, there will be a few potential downsides to some of these methods, and you’ll have to determine if a battery that lasts a long time are worth the tradeoffs. That won’t be the case for everyone, so just mix and match the tips that will work for your needs.

These tips will extend battery life for all iPhone users, but you probably don’t need to bother with any of this unless your iPhone battery life is actually suffering. It’s usually pretty obvious when so, because those of us impacted by the battery drain will have a battery at 30%-60% by mid day despite very light to moderate usage. If you’re not certain, you should run the battery down to about 5% and then see how long the battery has actually lasted by checking usage statistics, if what you see is only a couple hours of actual device usage, then you may have an excess drain issue that can be resolved by the tricks outlined below.

1: Turn Brightness Way Down & Turn Off Auto-Adjust

Setting screen brightness to be low and disabling automatic adjustments can make a huge difference. If you do nothing else recommended here, do this:

• Open Settings and go to “Brightness & Wallpaper”
• Slide the adjuster bar as far to the left as you can tolerate
• Flip “Auto-Brightness” to OFF

Yes, this makes it harder to view the screen when outside in direct sunlight, but that’s a small price to pay to be able to use your iPhone considerably longer. This settings change alone can easily add an hour or two, if not more, to battery life.

2: Turn LTE OFF

You may recall that, despite some criticism, Apple didn’t adopt LTE immediately – and the hit to battery life is exactly why they waited. The iPhone 5 definitely gets better battery life than a lot of other LTE devices, but it’s still not great. If you don’t use LTE much, turn it off and your battery will thank you.

• Go to Settings > General > Cellular > Enable LTE to OFF

For us data hungry folks, this hurts, because LTE is part of what makes the iPhone 5 so great. But unfortunately, using LTE networks causes the devices cellular modem to use more power, leading to reduce battery life. You can also consider turning it off and only flipping it to on when you actually need to do something quickly, but that’s a bit of a nuisance.

3: Turn Off Unnecessary Location Services

GPS uses quite a bit of battery, and many apps use location for a variety of reasons. Thus, every time you open or use a location dependent app, it hits your battery life, which is why turning off as many location aware services as possible helps to prolong battery. Turn this off for literally everything that doesn’t absolutely require it (basically, Weather, Maps, Google Maps, and Find My iPhone, are all that should stay on here).

• Go to Settings > Privacy > Location Services > flip all unnecessary services to OFF

You can also go the nuclear route and disable all location services completely, but if you try to use Maps for directions it won’t know where you are.

4: Turn Off Unnecessary Cellular Data Usage

No, you’re not turning off cellular data completely (though that would help, but then your iPhone is obviously much less useful), instead you will turn off cellular data usage for items that just aren’t necessary, like updating iCloud documents, iTunes information, FaceTime, Passbook updates, and Reading List cross-device syncing.

• Go to Settings > General > Cellular > Toggle everything under “Use Cellular Data for:” to OFF

This basically means that none of those services will function or update while on cellular connections and will instead rely on wi-fi to update. This leads to reduced cellular modem use, and increased battery life.

5: Disable Mail Push and Set Fetch to Manual

This means that your iPhone will no longer check for new mail on it’s own, meaning if you want to know if you have emails awaiting you, you’ll need to launch Mail app and do the pull-to-refresh gesture to check yourself.

• Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data > flip Push to OFF
• In the same Settings menu, go to “Fetch” and choose “Manually”

For those of us who need to get new emails as fast as possible, this is not really a viable option. One compromise is to disable Push, but keep Fetch on with aggressive settings to pull new emails faster, but that will still hit the iPhone battery. If you can afford to wait to manually check your emails, go the manual route for the biggest impact.

6: Turn Off Bluetooth

Who uses Bluetooth all the time? Just about nobody, so why do you have it on all the time? Here’s what you should do instead: turn it off, and only toggle it on when you are actually using it for a headset or keyboard. Otherwise you’re both broadcasting the Bluetooth signal and searching for available devices even when it’s not needed, and that drains battery.

• Go to Settings > Bluetooth > OFF

Thankfully this one isn’t buried to deep so it’s not much of a nuisance to toggle it on and off when needed, and for many of us, just keeping it off all the time is hardly a sacrifice.

Yes, there are tons of other battery tips, but ultimately the six offered above are going to make the biggest difference without getting too crazy with individual settings.

Got an amazing battery trick we missed? Let us know on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, or email – comments are temporarily disabled

Ever wanted to check the remaining balance of an Apple ID, so you know how much credit is remaining for iTunes, iBooks, or App Store purchases? Us too, and it’s actually quite simple to see quickly from either iOS with an iPhone or iPad, or through OS X from any Mac. The only thing you’ll need is the App Store or iTunes app and the Apple ID you want to check the balance for, and since the App Store is included with every single Apple device you’ll be able to do this from just about anywhere.

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One little feature that iOS really needs is the ability to natively “print to PDF” directly on the iPad and iPhone, a popular trick on the Mac and in the PC world that allows you to digitally print anything and, in this case, save the contents of any web document or web page as a self-contained PDF document, allowing it to be read later, printed, or used for whatever other purpose. Since this great feature isn’t around on the iPhone and iPad at the moment, we can use a nice bookmarklet trick combined with a free third party web service to be able to add a “Save as PDF” option to Safari in iOS, which allows you to ‘print’ or convert any web page to a PDF file that is then accessible to apps like iBooks. Let’s walk through the process of setting this up:
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There are a variety of ways to see all applications or programs which are running on a Mac, ranging from only seeing “windowed” apps running in the graphical front end, to revealing even the most obscure system-level processes and tasks running at the core of OS X. We’ll cover five different ways to view these running apps and processes in Mac OS X, some of which are very user friendly and applicable to all users, and some of which are more advanced methods accessible from the command line. Take the time to learn them all, and you can then use the method most appropriate for your needs.
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